The world of Russian watches is quite unlike any other. In terms of what they put into wrist watch design there is no other nation which can match Russia. I do not mean that they make the best watches in the world, although they are good, but that each Russian made watch comes with a large measure of national spirit. You cannot say that about Swiss watches or the Japanese. We all know how good Seikos are, but what is there about them which is obviously Japanese? Swiss makers have set the benchmark - but the world's greatest watchmakers prefer to remain discrete craftsman.

I think that Vostok are the most obviously "Russian" watchmaker. The military models do not really look like conventional military watches. They are certainly chunky, robust and built like Russian tanks. But they are often so enchantingly colourful it is difficult to take your eyes from the dial when checking the time. Most of the military models are decorated with images of military hardware and the Soviet red star is a common feature. There are even KGB watches with the emblem of the KGB and CCCP in red capitals. Of course it is difficult to imagine a Soviet KGB agent advertising his identity with such a watch but then it is not uncommon to see Submarine personel wearing the Red Star Sub watch, so who knows?

Poljot were the first big watchmaker in the Soviet Union and they are today gaining in reputation for making interesting designs, Russian or otherwise, using movements based on many Swiss classics. As the Swiss have largely turned to quartz, Poljot are one of the most important manufacturers to keep the mechanical tradition going. The Aviator watches are probably the most popular and the Sturmanski is the most famous, particularly the type worn by Gagarin in space. At the high end of the scale can be found the Romanoff gold plated chronographs which typically sell for about £400.

Of the other Russian makers - Orion is relatively new and known mainly for its beautiful skeleton watches. Although Raketa are now sadly out of business I still manage to find new old stock. The 24 hour watches are popular as are the World Time models. The Moscow based company Slava has in its catalogue many designs which have a strong Russian appearance but as well as these classics the company now makes many slick designs such as the Skeleton Pro.